Chapter 12 VENICE,

26 27-10-88. Cold.

We arrived at Venice Railway station at 4-11am.

As it was pitch dark and I didn't fancy a dip in the Grand Canal, I sat patiently waiting for the refreshment room to open at 6am.

Mouth watering at all the goodies on display I again waited patiently at the counter to be served. After standing for what seemed like hours and being totally ignored, I realised that one had to pay the cashier sitting at the other side of the room then approach the counter. Very difficult- not being able to point at the food to the cashier. I don't really remember how I managed that hurdle, but I do remember not being in a very good mood.

It was not a brilliant start, I was tired and cranky. However who would not be uplifted at the sight of St. Marks Cathedral or the Grand Canal.

Basilica of San Marco.

Grand Canal.

The Grand Canal is 3K long and up to 70 metres wide. There are over 400 bridges crossing the 100 or so canals that connect and wind through the city.

I was immediately under the spell of the beauty that is Venice which is known as the most beautiful city built by man, also one of Europe's most romantic. It is not a large city and it is possible to walk from end to end in an hour. Of course being me, I was soon lost in the maze of bridges.

I remember standing on one such bridge, fascinated by the water traffic, particularly the way the garbage collectors manoeuvred their boats in and out of such small spaces with the greatest of ease, going from house to house. There was even an ambulance speeding along.

Fascinating to see how they have adapted.

All situations catered for. It was fun just to watch all the happenings and the traffic on the water.

Local traffic.

I wonder if it has a siren??

I remember my children talking about this bridge and promising that one day they would meet here. They never did but each has visited separately. I think it was a a favourite rock song of the 70's by Robin Trower.?

Ponte Dei Sospiri. The bridge of Sighs.
The only covered bridge in Venice.


The tourist's view.

So called because it connects the Doge's Palace to the prison and prisoners were taken across to the jail from the Judgement Hall. They had their last glimpse of freedom through the small windows. Byron referred to it in one of his poems 'Childe Harold Pilgrimage.'......

I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs
a palace and prison on each hand.

The Doge's Palace.

The Palace courtyard.

Leonardo Loredan.The Doge of Venice.

Painted by Bellini.1501.

This painting has been a favourite of mine for a long time. I first saw it in a friend's house and was struck by the serenity of his face. Such a peaceful painting.

Water buses are the most inexpensive way to get around. I'm sorry now that I didn't fork out the $60 which it would have cost for a gondola ride. I didn't know then about the traghetto gondola ferries which cross the Grand Canal. Very cheap fare, and you get to ride in a gondola for two minutes - but you stand up for the trip. I probably would have fallen in!

I travelled in a very crowded water taxi and it was the only time on my whole trip that I felt a pick pocket. A hand slipped in to the pocket of my parka which fortunately was empty.

All the buildings are supported by oak and pine piles which are driven deep into the ground to create a solid foundation. Because of the waterlogged soil the lack of oxygen means the posts remain strong and don't decay. The wood petrifies because of the mineral rich water and becomes like stone.

During the 20th centurythe local industry sank many artisan wells and Venice began to subside. This was banned in the 1960's but the city is still affected by low level floods that rise several centimetres following certain tides. In many old houses the staircases used to unload goods are now flooded.

I wondered what they do when someone dies. Asking around I was told they have a Cemetery Island. What a sight a funeral must be.

Cemetery Island.

It was wonderful to visit this magic city but ever mindful of the time, or lack of it, I found my way through the bridges to the railway station en route to......

FLORENCE.