Chapter 3 - Memphis Tennessee

Departure from one of the world's largest airport was some experience, planes taking off and landing within seconds of each other. I counted five lined up behind us waiting for take-off . A three hour flight to Houston airport arriving at 4.30 pm. I found my way to two terminals looking for the cheapest flight to Memphis. (remember shoestring)

North West airlines $351 return departing 5.51pm. Writing this 22 years later I'm shaking my head in disbelief. What was I thinking? Surely I had qualms about arriving in a strange city at 7 pm.? No such feelings, I could have conquered the world so full of confidence was I on that trip.

Also my accomodation was booked at the hostel. Elvis here I come!

Memphis International airport.

When I booked into the hostel from Australia I was told a limousine would pick me up at the airport. Way to go!!.Turned out to be a small bus which deposited several passengers en route. I got talking to a young Australian doctor returning from a visit home. He was very interested in my trip and wished me luck especially as I was wandering around alone. As we deposited him at St. Jude's hospital his parting words were,"One warning, stay away from downtown Memphis."

I could see the driver, a huge African American lady listening and as we pulled away she turned to me the last passenger and said with a leer,"Now I take you to downtown Memphis"

Oh dear!!

We pulled up outside a beautiful building and my spirits lifted. Downtown Memphis can't be so bad.

Beauty.

Wouldn't you know it? This housed the hostel office, the actual house was around the corner. Oh well beggars can't be choosers.. So off I went to to find my abode for the next five days.

Broken windows no locks on doors right in the middle of downtown Memphis!

and the beast!

There were several boys and girls from around the world to welcome me so I felt quite safe.

It was a strange set up, the lower floor being the hostel and while we could hear movement above us we never saw a soul.

No five star accommodation here but that smile says it all.

After a couple of days my room mates moved on and I was alone, no way of locking myself in. Around 11pm I heard someone moving around. On investigation I found a rather grubby looking back packer who had been told of the house with no locks and had sneaked in to spend a night's free lodging. I think that was the case with a lot of back packers, the word spreads when there are no onsite caretakers.

He turned out to be a really nice boy but could have been an axe murderer. I tell you my guardian angel must have been working overtime on that trip.

Another scary episode while there. I had an early breakfast one morning and later in the day met up with one of the boys while wandering around. He told me I had just missed a terrible fight in the car park next door and shots had been fired, one of which came in to our kitchen to lodge where I had been standing not long before. He said I had just left. More work for that poor overworked angel!

Now on to the reason I am in Memphis.

Graceland and the Music Gates.

What a thrill to see this view. Graceland, bought on March 19th 1957 as a gift for his mother Gladys at a cost of $102,500.

First thing to do was to purchase my entry ticket.

What a time I had. I spent two full days there, finding it hard to believe I really had arrived.

So much to see and do!

I am here! Wot no brass band?

I had read that Elvis employed many relatives and I was lucky enough to run into his cousin Harold Loyd who still worked as a security guard.

Harold Loyd, me and a flower I stole from Elvis's garden.

Much time was spent talking to him. His mother and Gladys Presley were sisters. He also had written a book (like many many others) about the time he spent as Graceland gatekeeper. I wasn't ready to leave the grounds so he sent his son across the road-Elvis Presley Boulevard -for a copy as I wanted him to autograph it for me.

My treasured book.

and the autograph.

On to other things. Up those stone steps into the inner sanctum.. WOW. Where to start?

How about the music room featuring the Kimball grand piano, finished in 24 carat gold leaf.

My dream piano.

Or maybe the Jungle room where he recorded his last song' Way Down'. He bought the furniture in 30 minutes. The carpeted ceiling provided great accoustics and two of his albums were recorded there.

The pool room was something to see, it features 750 yards of pleated fabric on the walls and ceilings. The pool table was bought in 1957 when Graceland was purchased.

Then the T V room where Elvis used to watch three football matches simultaneously on the wall mounted sets.

Great colour scheme.

The dining room was very ornate, red velvet curtains and upholstery.

Upstairs was off limits as was the kitchen area where all those huge bacon, peanut butter and banana sandwiches were on order at all hours of the day and night.

Then to the room where his gold and platinum records line the walls.

After that the display room to see the fantastic costumes.

Just a few.

Time now to play with some of his toys. The pink jeep from the movie 'Blue Hawaii a good place to start.

The snowmobile, one of many used for races around the grounds.

Elvis and his mother-in-law.

Just me.

I don't know why it looks yellow, it really is a beautiful baby pink.

The pink Caddilac that Elvis bought for his mother although she couldn't drive.

Off to see through the Lisa Marie now. No playing there.

The Lisa Marie. Hound dog One.

Elvis purchased this plane on April 18th 1975 for $250,000 Crew of four, originally seated 96. After it was customised it had room for 28. Such opulence, it was well worth seeing how the other half live.

The Meditation Garden was a very lovely but sombre place. Elvis, his mother, father and grandmother are all buried there.

After the funeral four men were arrested for apparently planning to break in to the mausoleum at Forest Hill cemetery and steal the body for ransom.

Permission was granted to move Elvis and Gladys to Graceland for security.

This magnificent statue was originally on Gladys's grave.

I spent two days exploring Graceland and on the second day met his uncle Vestor Presley, selling of all things a cook book. Chitlins, possum pie anyone? Shades of Granny Clampett!.

He warned me to be very careful as Memphis was a dangerous place. No mention of downtown.

On the third day I decided to widen my horizons and explore the city. Found the famous Beale Street, home of the blues and jazz. Also Schwab's store was a must see.

From a tourism blurb........

Far more than just a place to shop, A.Schwab Dry Goods Store is a true Memphis landmark. Atop its battered wood floors and tables find everything from plumbing supplies to religious paraphernalia.

A trip to A.Schwab is a step back in time to the great days of the general stores, offering a great selection of everything you need, and many things you might not. Browse through 44 kinds of suspenders, a wall of voodoo love potions and powders and a full kiosk of Elvis souvenirs.

Discover bongo drums and crystal balls, shoeshine kits and corncob pipes, long thermal underwear and cotton petticoats, praying hands and plastic backscratchers. When in Memphis this is one icon not to miss.

Miss it I did not.

Last of the big time spenders.

Please take note on the docket not one voodoo love potion, powder or crystal ball to be seen!

I then meandered down to the river, the Mighty Mississippi, ol' man river, Mark Twain, Huckelberry Finn, where I decided to blow the budget and take a ride on a paddlewheel steamer.

I was thrilled to be asked up to the wheel house where the captain let me take the wheel. Apart from a tendency to steer into the levee, with a little help from the captain, I managed to stay more or less on course.

Look at me!!

No he's not telling the passengers to abandon ship!

The Memphis Queen..See how high up I was in the wheel house.

I wrote in my diary...I hope these pictures come out- no one will believe me. What a day. Australians were the flavour of the month at that time thanks to Paul Hogan throwing those shrimps on the barbie. People loved to hear that accent. Throw in a g'day and you were in.

I did keep this memento.

While on Beale St. I saw the house where W C Handy had lived. He was known as the father of the blues and wrote the St.Louis Blues in 1914.

William Christopher Handy.

Also on Beale this magnificent statue of Elvis. Made of bronze it is 9 1/2 feet tall and weighs approximately 1,000 pounds.

After all the excitement of the past few days I had a quiet time exploring. The Victorian village where the old homes were being faithfully restored was well worth a look, loving old houses as I do.

The street where the hostel is situated is a typical example of the once beautiful neighbourhood deteriorating when undesirables move in. Although on the whole Memphis is a pretty city very clean unlike L A.

I could have spent more time wandering around but the clock was ticking and I still had one more exciting place to visit on my last full day. So before I say goodbye to America I'm off to

TUPELO MISSISSIPPI.